The holidays arrive on ocean air here. Lights twinkle across the skyline, cable cars wear wreaths like bow ties, and every block seems to hum with carols and clinking cocoa mugs. If you’re dreaming of Christmas in San Francisco this year, you’re in for a season that blends big-city sparkle with cozy neighborhood traditions. I’ve zigzagged these streets in December for years, and 2025 is shaping up beautifully. From ice skating under skyscrapers to timeless performances, here’s a lively, tried-and-true plan for making the most of Christmas in San Francisco.
Christmas in San Francisco traditions to catch in 2025
Start in Union Square, where the season flips from ordinary to magical the second you step onto the rink. The Safeway Holiday Ice Rink returns for the 2025 season, with skating beginning on November 5. The soundtrack is a mash-up of classics and pop, and the energy is pure holiday joy. Time your session for dusk and watch the city lights blink on while you spin in circles and laugh with strangers who suddenly feel like old friends.
Just a few blocks uphill on Nob Hill, step into the Fairmont’s grand lobby. Their towering gingerbread house and decked-out halls are the kind of old-fashioned spectacle that makes grown-ups grin. It’s a tradition that runs through the New Year—and one of those moments that smells like cinnamon and powdered sugar even before you reach the doors.
Vintage charm at the Great Dickens Christmas Fair
On weekends from November 22 to December 21, the Cow Palace transforms into Victorian London for the Great Dickens Christmas Fair. Consider this the city’s most immersive holiday party—cobblestones, costumed characters, roving carolers, hearty pub fare, and the kind of spontaneous street theater that pulls you right into the story. It’s five weekends of pure make-believe, great for families and unabashed romantics alike. Go hungry, bring a curious spirit, and plan to stay longer than you think.
Stage lights and sugarplums
Few holiday rituals feel as “San Francisco” as settling into the War Memorial Opera House for San Francisco Ballet’s Nutcracker. In 2025, performances run December 5–28, filling the gilded theater with Tchaikovsky’s score and snow that falls from the rafters with just the right shimmer. If you’ve never gone, make this the year; if you’ve seen it a dozen times, you already know it’s the heartbeat of the city’s holiday season.
Over at Davies Symphony Hall, the San Francisco Symphony turns December into a carousel of concerts—from Handel’s Messiah to jazzy swing and a live orchestra performance of a beloved holiday film. The 2025 lineup includes A Merry-Achi Christmas on November 30, Christmas with the Count Basie Orchestra on December 3, Messiah on December 5–6, and A Charlie Brown Christmas—LIVE! on December 21–22. The lobby itself is a wonderland of garlands and trees, perfect for a pre-concert toast with something sparkling.
Tree lightings and twinkly nights
Mark your calendar for the Civic Center Plaza Tree Lighting on Wednesday, December 3. It’s a free, family-friendly celebration with performances, crafts, and a festive crowd, set against the dramatic backdrop of City Hall’s glowing dome. Bundle up, sip hot cocoa from a nearby vendor, and wait for the joyful countdown as the lights flick on all at once.
Union Square layers on even more cheer with Winter Wander-land, a returning series of pop-up events and activations. Think music, treats, street performances, and cozy corners to pause and soak it all in. It’s the kind of evolving lineup where you wander, discover, and feel like you’ve landed in your own holiday movie.
Don’t miss the classic Macy’s Holiday Windows in Union Square, hosted with the SF SPCA. The tradition brings adoptable kittens and puppies to the glass—an irresistible combination of squeals, photos, and occasional happy tears when a family meets their new best friend. It’s hard to imagine a more joyful window display.
Waterfront sparkle and the magic of the Wharf
The waterfront glows this time of year. Over at Pier 39, the towering Christmas tree usually performs a synchronized light show set to music through the season. For 2025, the exact schedule will be announced closer to November, but expect lively nights and bay breezes that make the lights feel extra crisp. Grab a warm drink, find a spot with a view of the water, and let the spectacle wash over you.
Quiet escapes when you want a breather
Amid the shopping rush and showtime hustle, it’s lovely to find a pocket of calm. The San Francisco Botanical Garden opens its gates for free on Christmas Day, a gentle tradition that invites you to wander among redwoods, camellias, and cloud-forest blooms. If December gives you a bright, cool day, you can stroll the meadows in a sweater and feel like you’ve found a secret gift.
How to plan your holiday days
If you’re leaning into the big-ticket traditions, pair the Ballet’s Nutcracker with a late afternoon skate in Union Square and a post-show nightcap somewhere twinkly. On another day, dress warmly and spend the evening at the Civic Center Tree Lighting before walking over to admire City Hall aglow. Save a Saturday or Sunday for Dickens Fair—there’s more to see than you think—and end the night with a stroll through Union Square’s pop-ups. If you score tickets for the Symphony, arrive early to enjoy the decorated lobby and a festive drink, then let the music deliver that deep-down holiday feeling.
Little touches that feel big
Part of the charm here is how many small moments turn memorable. A cable car ride with a view of the Bay Bridge lights. A gingerbread-laced lobby selfie at the Fairmont. A peek into a Union Square shop that’s done up its windows with toy trains and tiny skaters. A street-corner saxophonist playing “Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas” while a busker nearby hands out candy canes. In San Francisco, the big traditions are real and dazzling—but the little surprises make the season feel like it’s yours.
Where to stay for maximum holiday cheer
If you want to be in the middle of it all without feeling overwhelmed, base yourself near Union Square. From this part of town, you can walk to the rink, the windows, and plenty of performances, then ride a cable car up to Nob Hill to admire lobby decorations. When the night winds down, it’s an easy stroll back to your room to warm up and plan the next day’s adventures. That balance—sparkling energy steps from your door, quiet comfort a block away—might be the best gift the city gives in December.
Final merry tips
- Reserve early for the Nutcracker and Symphony holiday concerts. These classics sell out fast.
- Layers beat bulky coats; December nights can be breezy but daytime sun pops out often.
- If you’re skating, book a twilight session to catch the lights switching on mid-glide.
- Plan one “anchor” event each day—tree lighting, show, or fair—and then keep room for spontaneous cocoa stops and window-gazing.
By the time you head home, you’ll have cinnamon on your scarf, a phone full of twinkly photos, and at least one new tradition to carry forward. That’s the quiet magic of celebrating Christmas by the bay—the city gives you a holiday that feels freshly wrapped, yet warmly familiar.